July 15, 2011; Hobart, Tasmania, Australia; final entry
Once again we awoke to a frost, this one so heavy that it almost looked as if it had snowed. We assumed that the frost would not be in the forest, and we were right. Our first scheduled stop was not too far away, along a trail leading to a view of St. Columba Falls. The falls are named for an Irish Catholic saint who copied the Psalms around 500 A.D., which started a war, and who was then exiled to Scotland. The falls were named by an Irish woman who discovered them and who had herself been exiled to Tasmania.
Echidna playing ostrich
On the way to the site we finally saw an echidna, a porcupine-like marsupial. We slammed on the brakes, only to have the only other car we saw all morning blow its horn at us. Nevertheless, we scrambled out of the car to get a better look at this strange little animal. Like an ostrich, it had buried its head in the leaf litter, presumably thinking that if it couldn’t see us then we couldn’t see him. It was great to see this odd Australian animal. The only animal we didn’t get to see that we really wanted to was a wombat.
St. Columba Falls
But duty called, and leaving our new friend behind, we headed up the road to the falls. Because St. Columba Falls is a popular tourist destination (just not first thing in the morning on a winter weekday), we were cautioned not to leave scars from our collecting along the trail. It’s just a short walk to the falls, which is one of the highest in Australia. Although I only found a single moss that I hadn’t seen previously on the trip, I found that many of the mosses I had seen sterile at other sites were fertile here. I collected these judiciously so as to have them as reference material in the herbarium.
Thursday, July 14, 2011; Pyengana, Tasmania, Australia
Bill Buck searching for bryophytes
Winter reared its ugly head again today. Sunrise was at about 7:00 a.m., and as soon as it became light, it was obvious that a heavy frost had whitened the landscape, including our car. So, after thawing out the car, we headed to our first site, the Weldborough Pass Rainforest Walk.
Under the canopy, the frost hadn’t covered everything, and since our primary stop that day would be at a much higher (and thus much chillier) elevation, checking out the forest, which is dominated by large southern beech (Nothofagus cunninghamii) with an understory of large tree ferns (Dicksonia), seemed like a good idea. The multitude of tree ferns at this locality was a special treat. We found a large number of bryophytes and lichens (as well as epiphytic ferns) that prefer the spongy, moist root mantles that comprise the tree fern trunks. We also found quite a large number of mosses that we had not seen before. It took a while for our fingers to thaw from the morning chill but the collecting helped keep us active and warm. In fact the collecting was so good that we ended up staying in the Weldborough Pass Rainforest an hour longer than we had scheduled. We decided to quit at a very good time, though, because as we were packing our collections into the car trunk, two other cars of tourists drove up to use the trail. We cleared out in a hurry before they could see the divots and scars we had left from our collecting!
The rental car travels under a novel underpass in the Blue Tier Nature Preserve
Today was mainly a travel day. Before leaving Hobart we ran by Paddy’s office to spread our still-wet specimens on his floor to dry while we are in the field. We headed north out of Hobart toward St. Helens. This town reminds me of some of the small coastal towns in Florida where I grew up, with touristy stores and lots of retirees. We lunched here and then turned inland to our collecting site of the day, the Blue Tier Forest Reserve.
We were a bit dismayed when we arrived at the road into the reserve only to find a “Road Closed” sign at the entrance. However, the road wasn’t blocked so we decided to chance it, which ended up being not nearly as bad a decision as it could have been; it seemed as if a road crew had preceded us! Many of the trees that appeared to have fallen across the road had already been cleared, and the one tree we found that was still over the road had amazingly fallen so that the large branches held the trunk off the ground and formed a kind of tree overpass.
Bill Buck and the Goblin Forest Walk Sign
Once under the tree, the road got narrower and began showing signs of erosion from previous heavy rains, but it was passable with only a minimal bottoming out of our rental car, though we did seem to be dragging branches under the car almost constantly. When the landscape leveled out, at about 700 meters, we came to a car park for the reserve. The air was decidedly cooler and the area around the parking lot was open, presumably kept so by grazing wallabies, based on the large number of droppings. There were several trail options for leaving the parking lot, and I just couldn’t resist the Goblin Forest Walk.
The rain forest earned its name today! You could tell from first thing in the morning that there would be a light, steady rain all day; and it lived up to expectations. We left Hobart after breakfast and headed south to the “Southern Forests” region on the northern edge of Hartz Mountains National Park. Our first stop was the Arve River Picnic Area. Here a short trail, billed as only a 10 minute walk, winds through an incredibly lush but open rain forest. Almost every surface is mossy: the forest floor is carpeted with particularly large mosses, and the fallen trees, many more than 6 feet in diameter, are covered in a diverse mantle of bryophytes. Even the smallest twigs host even tinier epiphytes. The filtered light, more hues of green than I ever knew existed, and the velvety texture of moss-covered surfaces make the forest almost surreal. It looks like a set from Lord of the Rings. For those who have never seen a Southern Hemisphere temperate rain forest, you couldn’t ask for a better introduction. There is something new at each turn of the trail and it was only the lure of additional sites, plus the sudden darkening of the skies and heavier rain that drove us back to the car.
From here we drove toward Hartz Mountains National Park. As we headed up the dirt road we started seeing patches of snow, and in no time at all, the snow was completely covering the ground, getting deeper and deeper as we headed into higher elevations. In fact, the only reason we even dared venture into the park itself is because some four-wheel drive vehicles had already blazed a track through the snow. Once inside the park, we parked our car in the middle of the road, and slogged through the nearly six inches of wet snow. All along the roadside small waterfalls cascaded down the rock walls, resulting in a rich moss diversity (and wet feet!).
The International Botanical Congress (IBC) is held once every six years, and this time it is being held in Melbourne, Australia in mid-July. I have visited Australia twice in recent years, most recently in 2009 in Western Australia, and in 2007 in Tasmania. Both of these trips were to attend field meetings of an Australia-New Zealand bryological group. My motivation to attend the Tasmanian meeting had been to better acquaint myself with another south temperate moss flora so that I could compare it to my study area in southernmost Chile. Despite the constant threat of leeches, I loved Tasmania and thought attending the IBC would be a good opportunity to return. I shamelessly wrote to the organizer of that 2007 meeting, my friend and colleague, Paddy Dalton, at the University of Tasmania, to see if he would be willing to host my visit there, even though it was only a week before the IBC. He generously agreed and so we planned a week-long collecting trip to Tasmania, along with my two graduate students, James Lendemer, working on a lichen genus for his Ph.D. through the City University of New York, and Mike Tessler, a beginning student in the graduate program at Fordham University.
Prior to the trip I had checked the Australian meteorological website to see what the weather might be in Tasmania (and Melbourne), knowing full well it was the middle of the austral winter. Temperature predictions ranged from a low of 3°C (ca. 35°F) to a high of 13-14°C (ca. 55°F), and so I warned the students to bring warm clothes. A few days prior to the trip I heard from Paddy that there had been snow in the hills around Hobart! Not to be deterred by a little cold weather, especially after my last research trip to southern Chile, when it was the austral summer, we all eagerly anticipated the upcoming trip.
After over 24 hours of travel time, it all became real when we boarded a flight from Sydney to Hobart and the Qantas pilot came on and announced that the weather in Hobart to be slightly above freezing with snow showers. But as we flew down the east coast of Tasmania (where we intended to do our field work), I didn’t see any snow on the ground and was hopeful that we might avoid it. I would soon learn otherwise! Paddy Dalton greeted us at the Hobart airport, a familiar face in a faraway land. We rented a car and I followed Paddy to our hotel, driving for my first time on the left side of the road. We then all went to dinner at a local seafood restaurant (local shrimp and scallops have just come into season), where we discussed the upcoming itinerary.
